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BERT VAN ZELM
 

04-10-2025: Madrid and flamenco

Last week I spent four days in Madrid and visited five museums.

It was great, almost too much (during my last museum visit, I had to drink two mojitos just to be able to wander around for another two hours).

The Prado, the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum, the San Fernando Academy of Fine Arts, the Reina Sofia, and the Spanish Royal Family collection.


the Prado


Since there was so much beauty to admire, I'll keep quiet about it, otherwise this blog would descend into endless praise. But there is one painting and especially one detail I want to highlight.

Velázquez had a slave, whom he portrayed. That portrait hangs in the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. I admire the painting immensely; I've made several sketches after it to learn and see where the magic of the portrait lies.

The slave's name was Juan de Pareja. He was a painter too. I've always been curious about what he made. One of his paintings hangs in the Prado. In that canvas, ‘The Calling of Saint Matthew,’ he portrayed himself. I've finally been able to see and compare his self portrait to the one Velázquez made of him. Is it a wonder I prefer Velázquez's portrait?

 


'The calling of saint Matthew', the detail showing the self-portrait and the portrait made by Velàzquez.

 


At the Reina Sofia, I was tickled by nostalgia. It reminded me of my visits to the Stedelijk Museum when I was around 16. The art in the Reina reminded me of what I used to see at the Stedelijk.

Back then, I watched everything with tingles of excitement, now I found much of it dated; a revolution from an earlier era with a thick layer of rust on it.

The many videos shown there were a joy to watch. I finally saw "Un Chien Andalou". Of course, there's the scene with the eye being sliced open with a razor (seen many, many times). I couldn't really get into the movie; the plot was too fragmented, like disjointed sand.

And a must was seeing the Guernica.


‘Un Chien Andalou’ (click on the image to see the scene with the eye).

 

I visited the Royal palace. Initially I had planned to visit the Escorial; I think I was right not to go. I wandered through the Royal palace, went from one opulently decorated room to another, but it didn't really do much for me.

 

Royal palace

 

A real stroke of luck was finding a barber just a stone's throw from the palace. Barely a window, just the name above the door; that gave me hope, and once inside, I knew it was good. 14 euros… a bargain.

He also indicated me a good lunch spot, I sat among the locals.



One evening I went to one of the many tablaos (all claim to be the oldest in Madrid). Sometimes I think flamenco has become too entrenched/drowned in tradition. It revolves around a few themes. And then… I've never seen a woman play guitar… especially in these times, I'd say something should be done about it…

There was endless applause, that's part of the event (the dancers sweated a lot). To me it seems difficult to sing and dance your heart out night after night, and do it in exactly 58 minutes (timed it).



Flamenco: I really like Diego el Cigala; click on the image below to enjoy a video. And yes, he's taken some wonderful side roads. (I want to buy a suit like his someday; maybe I can find one when Il be back in Madrid.)


Diego el Cigala, click on the image to go to a video with Diego.

 

Still, it can also be done in the traditional way and be great (I must have seen this video a 100 times, but it still makes me extremely happy).


Click on the image to go to the video.


Besides all the art, I was able to relax in the botanical garden.

 

My Airbnb stay… a bit awkward… the owner of my rented room in question, is a true Andalusian and was former an agent of flamenco shows. Unfortunately we couldn't find common ground. She didn't really understand my passion for painting and, quite rightly, refused to recommend a tablao.

I have to thank my dear Gala for finding this young lady.

 

Click on the image for the video.

 


There is hope for the flamenco future! Normally I'd post an extra video below the blog, but for some reason I can't seem to find another one of Rosalia that I am allowed to show, the ones I'd like to post get blocked. So, here's this interview instead...

 

 

 
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